Arming Doublet: A look underneath the armour

The arming doublet is the foundation of any 15th century man-at-arms' plate armour. The design that I wear was developed over eight months of testing by Gwen Norich of Black Swan Designs culminating in a final test at the Sword of Honour Jousts at the Royal Armouries in Leeds. It is based on the explanatory text of the Hastings Manuscript and the portrait of Don Inigo de Mendoza by Jorge Ingles (c. 1450) where he is depicted wearing an arming doublet that closes in the front and at the wrist with points and has spiral lacing in back for a secure fit. Wrinkles can make it very uncomfortable after only a short time from chaffing.

There are several sections of the armor that lace directly onto the doublet using points. It must be "strongeli boude" (strongly built) of stout fabrics lined in linen. Arming points, as described below, were made of "fine twine such as that used to make strings for crossbows tied small and pointed like points." The points were also said to be waxed with shoe-maker's wax so that they would not bend or break. Vulnerable areas of the body not covered by plates--such as the armpits and inner arms--are further protected by voiders, or gussets of chain mail, attached directly to the doublet.

There are a number of historical sources one can utilize to get a contemporary glimpse of what was worn underneath plate harness. The Hastings Manuscript [f.122b] is a collection of ordinances on chivalry is known for its owner, Lord Hastings. The original manuscript, written in Middle English was copied on vellum sometime in the 15th century from an unknown original document and contained some illuminations. Portions of it can be found with slight variations in other manuscripts from the Norfolk region. The Hastings manuscript was originally owned by a Sir John Astley of whom little is known. The manuscripts pages were bound into one thick volume that was supposedly once owned by Prince Henry, the son of James I. It was reprinted in Archeologia 57, Vol. 1 by Harold Arthur, Viscount Dillon, Hon. M.A. Oxon, President in 1899. Here is the portion that describes the clothing that a knight would wear under his armour:

He schal have noo schirte up on him but a dowbelet of ffustean lynyd with satene cutte full of hoolis. The dowblet muste be strongeli boude there the poyntis muste be sette aboute the greet of the arme. And the b ste before and beyhnde and the gussetis of mayle muste be sowid un to the dowbelet in the bought of the arme. And undir the arme the armynge poyntis muste be made of fyne twyne suche as men make stryngis for crossbowes and they muste be trussid small and poyntid as poyntis. Also they muste be wexid with cordeweneris coode. And than they woll neythirrecche nor breke. Also a payre hosyn of stamyn sengill and a peyre of shorte bulwerkis of thynne blanket to put aboute his kneys for chawfygeof his ligherness. Also a payre of shone of thikke cordwene and they muste be frette with smal whipcorde thre knottis up on a corde and thre coordis muste be faste sowid un to the hele of the shoo and fyne cordis in the mydill of the soole of the same shoo and that there be between the frettis of the heele and the frettis of the myddill of the shoo the space of thre fyngris.

Here is a translations into modern English by Brian Price:

He shall have no shirt upon him except for a doublet of fustian lined with satin, cut full of holes. The doublet must be strongly built; the points must be set at the break in the arm in the front and back. To lace the gussets of mail must be sewn onto the doublet also at the break in the arm and at the underarm. The arming points must be made of fine twine like that with which men make strings for crossbows. These points must have tips for lacing. And they must be waxed with leather-workers's [cood?], such that they will neither stretch nor break. And he should wear a pair of hose made of worsted cloth. Around the knees should be wrapped ' bulwarks' of thin blankets to reduce the chafing by the leg harness. He should wear a pair of thick shoes, provided with points sewn on the heel and in the middle of the sole to a space of three fingers.

The arming doublet, or pourpoint ("for points") as it was commonly known in the 14th century, went through very few changes as the plate armour over it evolved rather quickly to cover the entire body. The most noticeable change was the length. It gradually got shorter over time. As the area protected by plate expanded, the parts of the body coverd by mail became smaller and smaller. The hauberk, or mail shirt, gave way to the collar, skirt and gussets under the arms. There is some arguement whether the reference to "cut full of holes" refers to areas open for ventillation or small holes for lacing mail and plates to the doublet.

(Source: Chronique.com archives.)